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  Ohya, Hiroaki


Ohya, Hiroaki

Photo by Kjeld Duits Fashion Designer
Date of Birth:
1970
Birthplace:
Kumamoto, Japan

Photo © 2001 Kjeld Duits

Ohya is described by Issey Miyake as ''genius, pure genius.'' Miyake employed Ohya straight out of Bunka Fashion College, the leading fashion school of Japan. After several years of grooming, Miyake eventually gave him one of his brands to design for: Haat. Miyake encourages his designers to strike out on their own while continuing to design for him. Ohya grabbed this chance with both hands, and in 1996 started his own studio, Ohya Design Zoo Co. Ltd.

Hiroaki Ohya is very much a child of his time. He designs for himself, not for his customers. He is not interested in the people who wear his clothes. He is not even interested if anyone wears his clothes. In many cases, they are not. One of Ohya's most famous designs is Wizard of Jeanz (1999). The name is based on Lyman Frank Baum's The Wizard of Oz, made famous by the movie with Judy Garland.

The Wizard of Jeanz consists of 21 books which fold out into clothing. A book you can wear. With the cover as fluttering wings on your buns. Ohya only made 20 publications of the series, each one costing a cool US$6,000. They were snapped up in no time by collectors and museums.

Ohya got his inspiration for the series when he was at a flea market in New York one day. He discovered a 50-year-old biography about President Lincoln. For someone from a world where creations die a silent death after just 3 months the discovery was a revelation. "With a book you can see something from 50 years ago the way it was 50 years ago." It started a train of thought. "My own fashion creations disappeared within half a year. Especially in Japan everything is: 'make, throw out, make, throw out.' I had the feeling I was creating garbage."

That feeling Ohya expresses in his creations. The jeans in the books of Wizard of Jeanz is made of polyester. It is fake. Fake too, are the buttons, pockets, stitches and most other details of the piece of clothing. It has all been printed onto the fabric. Clearly fake at first sight. It is Ohya's commentary on the fake world that fashion creates each and every season. This fake world was perfected in Ohya's Cup Mode, based on Japan's famous Cup Noodles. You find them everywhere in Japan: a complete meal that is created in just 3 minutes by adding hot water. Fake at its very best.

Maybe because of this lack of respect for tradition, Ohya's clothes are fun and deeply dramatic. Like the Wizard of Jeanz, Cup Mode and one of his earlier creations: a set of shirts, each designed as a letter of the alphabet. "There are T-shirts, right? Why not A, B and C-shirts?"

Highlights

  1992 - Graduates from Bunka Fashion College, Japan
  1992 - Accessory designer at Issey Miyake Design Studio
  1996 - Launches own label: Ohya Design Zoo Co Ltd
  1999 - Wizard of Jeanz
  2000 - Ohya Cup Mode 2000
  2000 - Head designer for Haat Issey Miyake

More Information

  OH!YA? is Hiroaki Ohya's website for previous collections
  Official web site of Issey Miyake
  iKjeld's photo essay Japanese fashion designers

Information for Web Masters and Image Researchers

This image is from a large selection of photographs of Japan and the Japanese. They are available for licensing.

 

 

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